By Allie Cohen
When thinking of the word “re-appropriation” what is the first thing that comes to mind? For me, it’s almost been exclusively used in a negative context. However, definitions, which are essentially boundaries created about a concept in relation to social norms within a given point in time, are limited to the definer & the historical context and are always up for revision. This is the case with re-appropriation and corsets, and specifically, how the corset has turned from a patriarchal device to a symbol of sexual freedom.
The History of the Corset and The Use of a Women’s Body as a Tool
If you’re a woman who has ever been around any male, you’ve probably heard something along the lines of “don’t worry you’re pretty” in a social and/or professional setting at least once in your life. While the sentiment used is to minimize a woman’s capabilities and to assert superiority, this also prompts the question of to what extent (if any) appearance plays in gaining socio-economic access. As previously stated in another article I wrote, fashion and beauty trends reflect the current political environment; this holds true for corsets.
To understand the corset, we must understand its history. The first-ever corset-like garments appeared in Crete, Greece during the Minoan Period in 1500 B.C. Following this, fashion trends changed between tight-fitting and loose-fitting clothes as the attitudes towards women’s bodies (specifically in the Middle Ages) shifted. Specifically, in the 15th century, as women began to desire slimmer builds, constricting garments resurfaced. This desire for corsets and slimness was further amplified in France when Catherine De Medici, Italian noblewoman and queen consort of France, banned “thick waists” from French courts. This declaration resulted in a domino effect; first, the corset became a necessity for wealthier women, and then later down the line, it became a necessity for all women. To further depict just how integrated the corset was into society following the 15th century, in 1843, “Les Modes Parisiennes,” a Parisian fashion magazine, declared that wearing a corset was necessary in order to be beautiful” (AMA Journal of Ethics).
Corsets were primarily made from whale bones, wooden or iron rods, reeds, and bents. The corsets varied based on region and changed to adapt to different social norms and beauty standards throughout time. For instance, in the 17th century, the corset was used to emphasize breasts. That is because the upper-class and aristocracy viewed breasts as a sign of beauty and a status symbol. Conversely, in the 1920s, corsets were used to trim hips and thighs to make women appear more androgynous. As evidenced by these two examples, corsets have been used throughout history to morph bodies into the ideal body types of the time and display status: as bodies symbolized (and symbolize) different things depending on current political environments and socio-cultural norms.
Disclaimer: Stays and cottes were garments used for the same purposes throughout history.
Health Risks
While the notion of using bodies as a status symbol and tool should be troubling in itself, this notion also threatened the physical health of anyone who used such constricting garments. Specifically, in her article “Here’s How Corsets Deformed The Skeletons of Victorian Women,” Kristina Killgrove found that every skeleton she observed had “deformed ribs pushed into an ‘S’ shape and vertebral spines misaligned from vertical.” In another article “The Dangers of Tight Lacing: The Effects of The Corset,” Susan Isaac discusses how corsets have led to fainting and that “compressing the abdominal organs over time could cause poor digestion.” Some researchers even go as far as to say that corsets lead to shorter life spans. While there is not a ton of empirical evidence to support this, it is evident that such constricting garments as corsets can have health implications.
Redefining the Corset
In a society where we are beginning to promote gender equality and take down the patriarchal devices used to confine women to certain social, cultural, and economic statuses, this begs the question – where does the corset fit into modern society? Wouldn’t you think that reintroducing corsets into the mainstream is just a step back? Well, like words, garments can be redefined. In the case of the corset, they’re now used as an overgarment, not an undergarment. This transition is indicative that women are taking a hold of their bodies, as corsets are no longer worn as an undergarment only to be seen by men. This is significant because corsets were historically only made by men so they can mold the women’s bodies into their desired form. Laces were also incorporated so “that men could see if the laces had been untied and refastened incorrectly by a lover” (New York Times). Moreover, today, corsets are being created by women, for women, and as a way to reclaim the very devices that have been used to diminish our identities in patriarchal societies.
